Le Pergole Torte: the Sangiovese That Said “No”

Tuscan farmhouse with a vine pergola and a glass of red wine

Radda in Chianti · Tuscany

The wine that said “no” to the rules

Some of the greatest Italian wines were born from a refusal. Our article What Is a Super Tuscan? tells how a few rebels changed Tuscan wine in the 1970s. This is the story of one of the most loved of them, and of a man who simply wanted to make the wine he believed in.

A holiday house in Radda

In 1967 Sergio Manetti, who ran an industrial business, bought Montevertine, a small estate about 3 km south of Radda in Chianti, as a holiday home for his family. He planted vines, started making wine for friends and later left his business to dedicate himself to wine. The oldest vines, in a plot called Le Pergole Torte (“the twisted pergolas”), were planted in 1968.

1977: pure Sangiovese

At that time the rules of Chianti Classico required white grapes, such as Trebbiano, to be blended with the red Sangiovese. Manetti was convinced that Sangiovese alone, from a good vineyard, could make a great wine. In 1977, with the help of the legendary oenologist Giulio Gambelli, he made the first Le Pergole Torte: 100% Sangiovese, against the rules of the denomination. The famous critic Luigi Veronelli wrote that these were “not table wines, but fabulous wines”.

In 1981 Manetti left the Chianti Classico consortium because he refused to put Trebbiano in his wine. Years later the rules changed and pure Sangiovese became allowed, but Montevertine never went back: its wines still carry the simple name Toscana.

The faces on the labels

Every vintage of Le Pergole Torte has a different label with an abstract female face, designed by the artist Alberto Manfredi. Collectors look for them like small works of art. Since Sergio's death in 2000, his son Martino Manetti has run the estate with the same philosophy.

In the glass

Le Pergole Torte ferments in cement tanks and ages about two years in barriques and large barrels. It is a Sangiovese of great purity: cherry, violet, orange peel, earth and spice, with silky tannins and a freshness that lets it age for decades. Pian del Ciampolo is the most accessible wine of the estate: the same hand and the same idea of Sangiovese, ready sooner and at a friendlier price.

Pian del Ciampolo – Montevertine

Toscana “Pian del Ciampolo” 2019 – Montevertine

The door to Montevertine: fresh, pure Sangiovese.

€38.80

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Le Pergole Torte – Montevertine

Toscana “Le Pergole Torte” 2017 – Montevertine

The legend. Last bottle in our cellar.

€233.90

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Chianti Classico – Badia a Coltibuono

Chianti Classico 2019 – Badia a Coltibuono

To compare: a classic Chianti Classico from the same hills.

€24.40

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Serve at 16–18 °C, ideally after an hour in the decanter. Perfect with bistecca alla fiorentina, pici with ragù or a simple roast chicken with rosemary.

Sources

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